Forgotten Sheikh Badin

Omar Usman

Going along the Indus highway to Dera, one is exhausted by the dull & dreary deserts of Lakki. Halfway between Bannu and Dera [1] crops up a small tract of the Bhittani & Sheikh Badin ranges which are separated from one another by the Pezu pass (Darra Pezu). This location at the southern extremities of District Lakki Marwat is marked by the presence of the 4,700 ft Sheikh Badin, also known as Shin Char, Saba Roh, Nilah Koh or Ghundai. The weary traveller gives a distant look to the hill, finding nothing of interest. As you move along, it diminishes in the background into the desert again. 

Rest House & Other Bungalows

One end of its base is marked by the presence of the repulsive looking Lucky Cement Factory, reputed to be Asia's largest cement producing plant. The other end overlooks the oasis town of Paniala, famed for its gardens, saints, and "exploding mangoes". Amongst the inhabitants of Paniala, Marwats constitute the bulk of the population. There are also a small number of Seraikis, and members of a tribe unique to this area only known as the Brhach’s, though most of them are now absorbed into the Marwats.

Legend has it that a saint named Gulani Faqir or Haji Baba came to this desolate place in the midst of the desert and found a people much more devout than those in the nearby areas. As a gift to these people, the saint struck the ground with his staff and a steady gush of water started to ooze out. He then mounted his horse and rode around the town, with the water flowing wherever he went. Today, the oasis town is encircled by a stream with a steady flow of underground water, which the locals attribute to the legend. Finally, the saint prayed that the people themselves only consume the fruit from the gardens of this oasis. The Paniala mangoes are thus famed for bursting open if taken far from the oasis itself. Other saints who are buried here are the Ashab-e Rasool (Companions of the Prophet PBUH), Ahmad Malarha, Lewani Shedan, Ali Sheikh & Jiway Lal Malang.

Road through Darra Pezu

It is very difficult to grasp the fact that this dull looking hill overlooking Paniala would house a massive cantonment of British era, neglected over the years by the local governments, and populated by fugitives until recently. Outwardly, the hill presents a dull look, but the appearance of the station at the top of the hill is hideous. The whole hill is mostly composed of sand-stone, limestone and clay, hence it is a rich resource for meeting construction requirements in the district. There is also the presence of wild olives, acacia and dwarf palm trees.

Lakki Cement Factory

The first settlement in Sheikh Badin was by Sheikh Baha'udin (not to be confused with Baha'udin Zikria, although he is also reputed to have spent 13 years here before moving on to Multan). He moved in from Sopur in Kashmir some four hundred years ago. His offspring still lives and occupies the top and are locally known as the Pir's of Sheikh Badin.

Skyline of Pezu

The second major settlement was made by the British in 1860, who made it their summer head-quarters. All important offices, Police, District Magistrate, Treasury, Commissioners, and a small hospice would operate from here, away from the sweltering heat of the Dera & Bannu plains. Being a cantonment, it was strictly off-limits to the locals who would have to leave by two and retreat to the nearest caravan-serai halfway down the hill. Troops would patrol a path surrounding the cantonment for security purpose. The only other site outside the limits of the cantonment was the graveyard, now in a desolate condition. There were marks on the graves but much of the grave-stones have been stolen over the years.

About the hill station, one of the first settlement officers, Major Urmston writes in 1864 that, "There are no two opinions on the healthiness of the sanatorium. It has been proved beyond doubt to be a most valuable place of resort for officers and families on the frontier during the hottest months of the year; and, after the experience of two seasons, I can safely affirm that, though its outward appearance is less attractive than other hill stations, its beneficial effects upon the constitution, especially of ladies & children, are very great. The cool breeze which sets in towards sunset is very refreshing, and dense fogs and clouds are rare." [2]

Ownership rights for all the land was with the British. They, however made two exceptions. The first being grant of 14 kanals to the Pir's family managing the shrine, and the second being grant of 1.5 kanals to an unknown influential Hindu from Bannu. The British kept on utilizing this hill station until 1914, when due to military engagements in nearby Waziristan, they moved camp to Wana. [3]

 
View from Azghaz Khel Side

The cantonment premises at the top houses 15 bungalows, a police station, jail, squash court, rest house, post office, a small bazar with just two shops, the shrine of Sheikh Baha'udin, and housing compounds of the Pir families. Stone & wood is used in construction and most of the structures present an unfinished look. This settlement at the top is made in a central depression which is likened to an extinct crater, though the hill is by no means volcanic in character.

Not surprisingly, water is a major problem. The British constructed around a dozen pools for storage of water in this depression. These would be filled during the rainy season and its water utilized with the help of Karez system for irrigation purpose and provision of water to the lush green gardens and lawns. Although the gardens have vanished, the karez system is still present, though not in use anymore. Drinking water was and is arranged by hiring water-carriers for a nominal amount who in turn bring it up on donkeys from springs at the foot of the hill near Paniala.

A cold breeze always blows across the top irrespective of day or night. The wildlife department has also declared the area to be a wild-life park, although no animals were in sight, and a large tract of land was burnt due to forest fires caused due to thunder earlier this year. The hill was home to a wide range of animals, most notable of which were leopards, wolves & urials.

Sheikh Badin Range

Strangely, during the last decade, the government had handed out contracts by auction for the demolition of a number of these historical structures to make way for "Dera Township", which would include residential & business areas, a campus of Gomal University, other district offices, and parks. Many political & influential figures managed to secure these contracts and occupied the premises illegally for personal purposes. Some even started selling land which they did not own or which never existed.

Now, Sheikh Badin is suddenly in the news again. 25 crore rupees have been allocated to development of Sheikh Badin by the provincial government. This includes construction of a 14 km stretch of road, 6 tube-wells for irrigation & drinking, electricity, and provision of other basic amenities. Lets hope the authorities stick to their promise and restore the past glory which the hill station enjoyed.

View from Paniala Side

Notes & References

1. Distance from Dera Ismail Khan is 45 miles (North) whereas from Bannu, 64 miles (South)
2. Gazetteer of the Dera Ismail Khan District, Arya Press Lahore, 1884, pp 207
3. Conversation recorded with Akram Khan, who served at the Dak Bungalow (Post Office) for forty years, two of which were under the British.
4. Badr Farooq Mughal, Mashriq Sunday Magazine, 25 June 2006

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