Orakzai Agency

Orakzai Agency has an area of almost 700 square miles and has a general elevation of 5,500 to 5,600 feet above sea level. The important peaks are the Sangla (6325 ft) and the Chara Kandaco (5,643 ft). Its weather is characterized by intense cold in winter when the temperature falls below freezing and has mild summers. December, January and February are the coldest months and snowfall occurs in some areas. In the mild summers, the temperature usually does not go above 30 degrees centigrade. The surrounding forests are covered in dense and thick forests which produce a cooling effect in summers.

The Orakzai Tribes take their name, which literally means the lost son (Orak Zoi) from a romantic legend about their ancestor, Sikandar shah, a prince from Iran. The prince was exiled or lost and after many adventures married and ruled over the Tirah.

The four major non Orakzai tribes, the Ali Khel, Mullah Khel, Mishti, and Sheikhan are now for all purposes like the other Orakzai tribes. Certain Orakzai tribes, like the Masozai and half the Lashkarzai (the other half, the Mamozai, inhabit the Khanki river valley in the Orakzai Agency) find themselves in Kurram agency for historical and administrative reasons. A small Bangash tribe, the Biland Khel, is attached to the Orakzai agency also for administrative and historical reasons, although they lie at some distance from the agency between Thal and North Waziristan (by the entrance to the Spin Wam - Mir Ali Road). Over one tenth of the entire population of the agency is of the Shia sect. The Shia areas in Tirah receive heavy rainfall and especially along the Mastura River (which divides them from the Sunni Daulatzai Tribes) where fine wheat, maize and rice crops are grown.

Creation of the agency had been announced at a grand tribal Jirga by the late Prime Minister Zulfikar Ali Bhutto at Samana and it began functioning on 1 December 1973. Before this date, the Orakzai tribes were part of Kohat and Hangu Frontier regions. The headquarters of the agency are in Hangu District whereas the Tehsil level head quarters are situated at Kalaya & Ghiljo. The valley is flanked by mountain ranges between 6000 to 7000 feet high. To the north is the Khyber Agency, to the west the Kurram Agency, to the east Peshawar District and to the south is the Kohat District which accessible via the Kotal Pass. Among the seven tribal agencies, Orakzai is the second smallest in area after Bajaur. The whole of the agency is a mountainous tract dissected by numerous dry waterbeds, especially in the south-western part of the agency. The major streams are the Mastura and the Khanki Toi; both of which originate from the hills in the west and run towards the east.

The Main town of the Orakzai Agency is Darra Adam Khel. It is not too difficult to come to Orakzai Agency. From Kohat, a flying coach can be boarded from the Teerah Bazar Adda, from Hangu via Ghazi Sarai, and from Aka Khel Adda in Bara Agency. The bazaars which exist in Orakzai agency are few in number. These bazaars are locally known as Mela. Some of these Melas are Daboori Mela, Mishtee Mela, Feroze Khel Mela, Kalaya Mela, Ghiljo Mela, Sama Mamozai Mela, Anjani Bazar, Kadda Bazar, and Kurez Mela. The most beautiful places of Orakzai are Qalaya/Kalaya, Feroze Khel, and Samana. Samana is one of the oldest tour resort in Orakzai agency. An ancient fort of British Government is also located here. People visit these spots throughout the year.

Darra Adam Khel (FR Kohat)

Dara Adam Khel is a land of rugged mountains rising in some cases to an elevation of 6500 feet. The hills are sparsely wooded with growth of shrubs and stunted trees, chiefly the ilex oak, wild olive, palosin (Kikar) and thorny bushes known as the gorgoora. In good seasons there is also an abundance of grass in these hills which is mostly cut and stacked fore sale. The land is dependent for its cultivation entirely on the rainfall. Wheat and maize are its common crops. The produce of these fields is as a rule kept for home consumption and is rarely sold in the market. The climatic conditions of Dara Adam Khel varies from extreme cold in winter to sultry hot in summer.

Sectional Responsibility on the Road

The responsibility for the safety of the road was divided as follows

Sherakki and Bosti Khel sections were responsible from the Kotal as far as Sanda Basta. The Tor Sapar clan was responsible from Sanda Basta to Shahida Talao. They were origninally responsible upto a point called Gatossai.

Zarghun Khels were responsible from Shahida Talao to Palosin and Akhorwals from Palosin to AAimal Chbutra. The Torsaparis who had no land and villages near the pass used to relegate a share of their responsibility for offences committed on the bit of road to the Zarghun Khels to whom they used to pay Rs. 80 per annum as chaukidari. This chaukidari (protection of the kohat pass road) allowance to the Zarghun Khels carried the condition that if the road for which it was paid was violated, this amount would first be utilized towards the payment of compensation decreed in favour of an injured person. If the amount assessed was in excess of this amount, it came out of the Tor Sapar allowances. In the settlements between themselves which followed the acceptance by the Afridis of the construction of a good military road, the Zarghun Khels agreed in the future to forego this chaukidari allowance of Rs. 80 per annum.

The following is a brief account of the different sections responsibilities of the Kohat pass road.

Bosti Khel

This section lives at the western head of the valley. In all matters Bosti Khel had an equal share with Sherakkis, the two sections being the descendants of two brothers. The Bosti Khels received a total subsidy of Rs. 1215 per annum in 1901 including the amount added on account of the construction of a good military road through the Kohat pass.

Sherakki

The Sherakkis, as mentioned above, are closely connected with the Bosti Khel. They received an annual subsidy of Rs. 1215, which they divided in equal shares between the Mobarak Khel and Bash Khel sub-divisions.

Tor Saparis

This section which is the off shoot of Gallai's eldest son would have been the strongest if all the sections of unanimity had been its lot in life. This section enjoyed a subsidy of Rs. 1200 per annum, whicyh after paying a small 1/4th share to Kooiwals, they divided it into two equal shares between the Nekzan Khel and Feroz Khel sub-sections, who again further sub-divided it into small shares for each particular "Kandi".

Zarghun Khels

The Zarghun Khel is the strongest and most important section. They occupy, with the Sherakki, the central portion of the valley. It consists of five main sub-section i.e., Mohammad Khel, Miri Khel, Mullah Khel -cum-Kasim Khel, Sani Khel, Talim Khel and Shpalkaiwals. Their subsidy of Rs. 950 was divided into five e1qual shares between the five sections above mentioned. Their allowances could be computed at Rs. 1130. To this has been added Rs. 1,000 on account of the construction of the new road in 1901.

Akhorwals

The Akhorwals are descendants of the Barkai, Tatkai and Nur Malik sub-section, so the Hassan Khel family. Their original subsidy of Rs. 2250, Rs. 400 were allotted to the Akhorwals. The balance of Rs. 1850 they divided into the shares of different sub-section i.e., Gaddia Khel, Bolaki Khel two shares, and Pirwal Khel one share. In the allowances ofr the construction of the road they were given Rs. 750 per annum.

Culture & Tradition

Hospitality (Melmastia)

Afridis are one of the most hospitable people. They consider Melmastiya (generous hospitality) as one of the finest virtues and greet their guest warmly with a board smile on their faces. Afridis feel delighted to receive a guest regardless of his past relations or acquaintance and prepares delicious meal for him or feed him with same meal and accommodation as he himself would await. Mr. L. Whit King says that "Afridis regard dispensing of hospitality as a sacred duty, and supply their guests with food according to their means." Guests are usually entertained in a hujra (village meeting place). The host kills a fowl if he cannot afford to slaughter a lamb or goat and prepares a sweet dish (Halwa) to satisfy his sense of hospitality. Guests are not only looked after but also respected.

Dara Afridis feel happy over the coming of the guests and greet them with traditional slogans, "Har Kala Rasha" and " pa Khair Raghley" and Starrey Mashey" i.e. may you often come, welcome and may you not be tired. He also exchanges such courtesies with the guest as " jorr yai " (a re you well)" Kha jorr yai" ( are you quite well) and "Takrra yai" (a re you hale and hearty). The guest gratefully acknowledging these forms of welcome by saying" Pa Khair Ossey, (may you be safe)" Khudai de mal Sha "(may God be with you)" Khushal Ossey" (may you be prosperous and happy) and " Ma khwaraigey" (may you not be destitute). This way of greeting full of friendly gestures reflects the warmth with which the guest s are received. The arrival of the guest in Hujra is immediately followed by tea and later the guest is served with a rich meal consisting of Halwa (a special sweet dish), Pullao (rice dish) and other seasonal dishes. When the guest sets off on his journey he is bade farewell in these words" Pa Makha De kha" (May your journey be safe4 and happy). The reply is "Sta Sara". (same with you).

The guest of an individual is considered as the guest of all and he is jointly entertained by the villagers in the Hujra. A variety of dishes are prepared and the elders of the family lunch with the guest on a common piece of cloth (Dastarkhwan) spread over a carpet, drugget or a mazri mat. It is one of the cardinal principles of Afridis hospitality to request the guest to sup or take a few morsels. After they have partaken of a meal, the company prays to Allah to give the host riches and prosperity and power of entertaining more guests.

Sir Olaf Caroe says

"The giving of hospitality to the guest is a national pride and honour, so much so that the reproach to an inhospitable man is that he is devoid of pakhto, a creature of contempt. It is the greatest affronts to an Afridi to carry off his guest, and his indignation will be directed not against the guest who quits him but to the person who prevails on him to leave. This or some thing like it, was the reception accorded to the outlaws from British justice who fled to the hills