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Hazara District - هزاره
The district of Hazara extends north-eastwards into the outer Himalayan Range,
tapering to a narrow point at the head of the Kagan valley. The mountain chains
which enclose Kagan sweep southward into the broader portion of the district,
throwing off well-wooded spurs which break up the country into numerous isolated
glens. Approaching Rawalpindi district the hills open out, and rich plain lands
take the place of the terraced hillsides and forests of the more northern
uplands. The Babusar Pass at the head of the Kagan valley marks the most direct
approach to Chilas and Gilgit from the plains of India.
The region of Hazara is like a door to heaven, opening up to visitors a world
replete with natural beauty. It was a favourite gateway from the plains into
Kashmir during Mughal, Durrani and Sikh rules. It is a large area some 10,000
sq. km. The world famous Karakoram Highway starts from Havelian, a town in this
region at a distance of 101 km from Islamabad. The mighty "Lion River" Indus or
Abasin flows through the entire length of Hazara. It is strategically located
between the Northern Areas, Azad Kashmir, Punjab and the rest of the North West
Frontier Province. Hill stations collectively known as the Gallis and the Kaghan
valley are the best known parts of Hazara. Pakistani and foreign tourists throng
its cool and serene valleys during sizzling summer.
History:
The ancient history of Hazara is not traceable because it is shrouded in the
mists of innumerable centuries. The historians have recorded different
traditions among the people to construct its history. But due to lack of
authentic evidence nothing can be said as a final word. Hazara seems to have
been inhabited by man from times immemorial.
Hazara has a very old history in Sub-continent. Its geographical boundaries had
constantly been changed in the times of various Rajas, Maharajas and Kings in
the past. Alexander the Great, after conquering the northern India, established
his rule over a large part of it. He handed over this area to Abisaras the Raja
of Poonch state. In those days this area was known as "Arasa" and later on was
named "Rash".
During the Mauryan dynasty, Hazara remained a part of Taxila. The Great Ashoka
was the Governor of this area when he was a prince. After the death of his
father, Bindusra, Ashoka ascended the throne and made this area along with
Gandhara valley major seat of his govt. The famous edicts of Ashoka inscribed on
three rocks near Bareri hill, beside Mansehra Town, are the evidence of his rule
here. These edicts prove that this area was a famous religious centre. From
ages, the devout Hindus after climbing up the Bareri peak performed religious
obligations to "Sheva".
In the second century AD, a mythical Hindu king, Raja Risalu, son of Raja
Salbahan of Sialkot, brought this area under his sway. The local people consider
him as their hero and even today parents narrate to their children the stories
of Raja Risalu and his wife Rani Konklan in the winter nights.
When a Chinese pilgrim Hieun-Tsang visited Indo Pakistan Sub-continent, this
area was under the control of Durlabhavaradhana, the ruler of Kashmir. It is
also said that Turkey Shahi and Hindu Shahi dynasties ruled Hazara one after
another. Among the rulers of Hindu Shahi dynasty Raja Jaipala was the most
prominent. Mehmood of Ghazni defeated him during his first Indian campaign.
Mehmood paid no attention to Hazara for establishing a Muslim rule over there
except using it as his approach to Kashmir.
Again in the 11th century A.D. after the fall of Hindu Shahi dynasty, the
Kashmiris occupied this area under the leadership of Kalashan. From 1112 to 1120
A.D. King Susala ruled this area. In the last quarter of the 12th century A.D.
Asalat Khan, a general of Mohammad Ghauri, captured this area but soon after
Ghauri's death the Kashmiris, once again, occupied Hazara.
Thereafter, the history of Hazara is obscure up to 1399 A.D., when the great
Muslim warrior Tamerlane, on his return to Kabul, left here some soldiers for
the protection of this important route between Kabul and Kashmir. By this time,
the Muslims ousted the Hindus from power and established their authority. In the
beginning, Hazara remained under the direct control of Kabul. But in 1472 A.D.
Prince Shahab-ud-Din came from Kabul and established his rule here. He founded
the state namely Pakhli Sarkar.
During the Moghul period the local Turk chiefs acknowledged the authority of the
Moghuls. During the last days of Akbar, the Turk chief Sultan Hussein revolted
against the Moghuls. The Moghuls exiled him after crushing this revolt but later
on they pardoned him and handed over his state back to him.
The first quarter of the 18th century became miserable for Turks because their
rule came to an end due to the decay of their vitality, and the increasing
aggression of the Pakhtoons and their allied forces. The most crucial attack was
that of the Swatis under the command of Syed Jalal Baba in 1703 A.D. They ousted
the Turks from upper Hazara (Mansehra) and captured it. While Jadoon's and
Tareen's captured lower Hazara i.e. Abbotabad and Haripur; the Tanolis had
already established their authority over Tanol who later on founded a state
namely Amb state.
When Ahmad Shah Durrani extended his Kingdom to Punjab and Kashmir, Hazara also
came under the control of this new invader. The Durranis controlled Hazara
through the local Khans. In the beginning of 19th century their power weakened
which opened the way of revolt against them. They sent many detachments of
troops to maintain law and order but rather their control decreased day by day.
When the Sikhs rose in power under Ranjeet Singh (1777-1838) they asserted
themselves independent of the Durranis. Ranjeet Singh organized his army on
modern lines and then started to extend his regime over a vast area.
The Sikhs got hold of Hazara in 1818. A.D. after a stiff resistance from its
inhabitants. Soon after the Sikh's annexation of Hazara to Punjab, Syed Ahmad
Shaheed along with the "Mujahideen" appeared on the soil of Hazara. He fought
many battles against the Sikhs. But at last in 1831, along with a number of
friends the Sikhs martyred Syed Ahmad and strengthened their hold in Hazara.
After the death of Ranjeet Singh, disintegration of the Sikh state started due
to which the British annexed this state to their dominion. On 19th March, 1846
an agreement was signed between the British and Raja Gulab Singh according to
which the latter took Kashmir and Hazara from the former for rupees 75 Lacs. But
due to widespread civil disorder and resistance movement, Raja asked the British
govt to takeover Hazara in exchange of the Jammu Jhelum belt. The British
accepted this offer and took over Hazara from him. They deputed James Abbot to
Hazara to restore peace. At first the British faced no resistance here except
that of Chuttar Singh, a Sikh general, but after three years Zaman Shah of
Kaghan turned against British who deprived him of his estate and exiled to
Pakhli plain. After four years of British forgave him and he was permitted to
get back his lost estate.
Unlike the people of the settled areas, the Pakhtoon tribes that lived on the
western outskirts of Hazara, remained a constant source of trouble for the
British for four decades (1852-92) The British sent more than four expeditions
against them and ravaged Black Mountains many times. To maintain peace in the
area, the British also took preventive measures having conferred titles on the
leading persons.
After their advent, the British declared Hazara as a district, divided into
three tehsils i.e. Mansehra, Abbotabad & Haripur, and annexed it with the
Punjab. In 1901 NWF Province was formed. Hazara was separated from the Punjab
and made a part of NWFP.
During the British period, Hazara remained in the forefront of various
religio-political movements in the Indo-Pakistan Sub-continent. The people of
this area joined the ranks of those Muslim freedom-fighters who wanted to
strengthen the cause of Islam. The people of Hazara joined the Khilafat movement
zealously. Consequently, Hazara became quite unruly. The people refused to
acknowledge the British rule having selected their own functionaries in
different villages. The British took strict measures to bring them under their
control.
When the Muslim League started its movement for a separate homeland, the local
people joined it and struggled for liberation from the alien rulers under the
leadership of Quaid-e-Azam and got victory against them, culminating in the
creation of Pakistan, and independent state for the Muslims of the
Sub-continent.
During the elder Bhutto's regime Hazara was upgraded to a division-level
comprising two districts namely; Mansehra and Abbottabad. Later on, Haripur was
also upgraded to the level of district of Hazara. Still later, Batagram was also
given the status of a district. Today, Hazara is a place of scenic beauty.
During the summer, people come here for recreation from far, flung areas of
Pakistan as well as the rest of the world. They feel peace and tranquillity
here.
Places:
Abbottabad
The city of Abbottabad was founded in 1853 by Maj. James Abbott, who was the
first Deputy Commissioner of Hazara District. Hazara remained a District right
upto its conversion into a Division in 1976. In October 1976, Mansehra was given
the status of a full fledged District, which consisted of Mansehra and Batagram
Tehsils. Subsequently in July 1991, Haripur Tehsil was separated from Abbottabad
and made into a District. Thus only the old Tehsil of Abbottabad remained, which
was declared as Abbottabad District.
Abbottabad itself is a small neat and clean town in spacious valleys
surrounded by green hills. It is a popular summer resort, located at the end of
Murree-Abbottabad hill tract, noted for its verdant parks, gardens, golf course
and pine covered hills. Abbottabad, apart from being famous for its educational
institutions and Military Academy, also serves as the gateway to almost
all-beautiful places in Pakistan. The formidable Karakorams & the enchanting
Himalayas can be approached from Abbottabad. Though the importance of the city
has been diminished a little by the completion of Karakoram Highway because, in
the past, the only track available to reach Karakoram was through Babusar Pass,
which in its turn, could only be approached through Abbottabad.
In spite of this development, the city continues to be a transit city for the
tourists. Abbottabad is the junction from where one can go to places like Hunza,
Gilgit, Skardu and Indus Kohistan, of the Karakoram Range. One can reach Swat,
Swati Kohistan, Dir and Chitral of the Hindukush Range. And one can approach
Naran, Saif-ul-Muluk, Shogran and Babusar Pass of the Himalayan Range. Neelum,
Lipa and Jhelum Valley of beautiful Azad Kashmir are also connected through
Abbottabad. While other hill stations are deserted during winter this place has
visitors due to the bracing winter. The place has beautiful gardens, Jinnah
Garden, Ladies Garden and another garden maintained by the Cantonment Board. To
the splendid stretch of turf with plenty of room for polo, football, hockey and
golf. At the back of the station to the west is the Brigade Center, ideal for
walks and picnic.
The Cantonment area of Abbottabad is still very British. The European
bungalows, the club, the church and cemetery are still there. Abbottabad is an
hour's drive from Nathia Gali, the summer capital of the North West Frontier
Province, which is from Nathia Gali to Abbottabad is about 34 km dropping
steeply through the beautiful valleys with few trees to the river bed.
Haripur
Panoramic View of Haripur
Located at 81 km from Islamabad on Hasan Abdal-Abbottabad road, Haripur was
founded in 1822 by Hari Singh, a general of Ranjit Singh's army. He was the
Governor of Hazara in 1822-23. A fort built by the Sikhs called Harikishan Garh
is at present being used as a police station. There is also a British cemetery.
Tarbela Dam
About 94 km from Islamabad, west of Haripur is the world's largest earth-filled
dam. It was constructed to tame the mighty Indus at Tarbela. It is one of
Pakistan's Geotechnical wonders. It has the largest electricity generating power
in the world and its two spillways are also the biggest in the world. The dam is
really immense and very impressive to visit especially in late summer. It is an
excellent spot for a day trip.
Thandiani
Thandiani
Thandiani means "cold" in the local language. Therefore being a cool place it
got the name of "Thandiani". It is 2700 meters above sea level on a small
plateau surrounded by pine forests. This beautiful spot can easily be approached
from Abbottabad, which is 24 km away. It is totally unspoiled and has the
loveliest of views of all the hill stations of Pakistan. The scenery here is
breathtaking and superb.
Nathiagali
Nathiagali clad in pine, walnut, oak and maple trees, is the prettiest hill
resort in the Galiyat region. It can be approached both from Murree and
Abbottabad. It is 34 km from Abbottabad as well as from Murree. Nathiagali is
2501 meters above sea level and is surrounded by lush green lofty mountains. The
British tried to create a little England here with its small timbered churches,
parks, bungalows and the Governor's House. Breathtaking landscapes, spring water
and fresh air make it one of the most peaceful hill stations in Pakistan.
Donga Gali
This beautiful tourist resort is situated on the slopes of Mukshpuri Hills. The
hills are wooded and present a beautiful view. Behind.Dungagali stands Mukshpuri,
one of the highest peaks in the area (2800 m).
Ayubia
Ayubia
A cluster of four small hill stations of Khanaspur, Khairagali, Changlagali and
Ghora Dhaka is called Ayubia and was named after President Ayub Khan who
belonged to Haripur district of Hazara. The complex is spread over an area of 26
km. The central place of Ghora Dhaka has a chairlift, which gives a panoramic
and mesmerizing view of the surroundings.
Mansehra
Mansehra is named after Man Singh, its Governor General under Ranjit Singh. This
town is at a distance of 24 km to the north of Abbottabad. It has a very lively
bazaar. The major tourist attraction of Mansehra are the three granite boulders
on which edicts of Ashoka the Great have been inscribed. This great Mauryan king
ruled this area in the 3rd century BC. After his conversion to Buddhism he
tried to dictate a new morality based on piety, moderation, tolerance and
respect for life.
Kaghan Valley
Out of the numerous beautiful valleys of Hazara, Kaghan is the most attractive
of all. It is a holiday retreat with an alluring scenic beauty. Towering peaks
of Himalayan Range, glaciers, water falls and crystal clear water of the lakes
are still in a pristine state and make the valley an unspoiled paradise.
The 161 kms long landscape of the Kaghan Valley with its towering Himalayan
peaks, peaceful lakes, majestic glaciers and splashing waterfalls is a scenic
wonderland, ending northwards in the 4148 metres (13,600 ft) high Babusar Pass.
Jeep service is available in the valley during summer, while motels and
rest-houses offer comfortable accommodation. There is a PTDC stopover Motel in
Bellyached and a big tourist resort in Naran which provides excellent
accommodation with meals at reasonable rates. It is an ideal area for trekking
and trout fishing. The adventure begins in Bellyached, a charming mountain
village, from where a road climbs 34 kms up to Shogran. At a height of 2,362
metres. Shogran has thickly forested slopes and grassy meadows, which present an
ideal setting for your first stopover.
The raging Kunhar river accompanies the steep winding road which leads to the
Kaghan village. The river is plenty of Trout Fish and has the villages of
Balakot, Kaghan, Naran and others on its banks. The nomads take their flocks of
cattle to the high pastures of the Kaghan valley in spring and bring them down
again in autumn. Their women are colourfully dressed. This little village, after which the valley has been named, is
only 61 kms from Bellyached. Between Kaghan and Naran there is a distance of 25
kms. Naran serves as the base-camp for excursions to other valleys, lakes and
peaks.
More details can be found here
Balakot
Balakot
Balakot is the gateway to Kaghan valley. Balakot itself is 72 km from Abbottabad.
This beautiful small town is located on the banks of Kunhar river. Journey from
Abbottabad to Balakot is a charming experience. The road passes through
beautiful green hills and thick forests. The views are spectacular especially
between Attarshisha and Garhi Habibullah. A famous battle was fought here
between the Sikh Army and Mujahideen in 1831. The Mujahideen leaders, Hazrat
Syed Ahmed Shaheed and Hazrat Shah Ismail Shaheed lie buried here along with
other martyrs.
Shogran
Shogran
Shogran, one of, the most beautiful plateaus in the whole area is situated at a
distance of 33 km from Balakot via Kawai. From there a jeep track leads to this
tranquil summer retreat of superb climate and spectacular views. The air is
impregnated with the scent of flowers and the pine forest around. It is at an
altitude of 2326 m and mighty peaks of Himalayan Ranges such as Musa ka Masalla
(4419 m) and Malika Parbat (5290 m) are visible from here.
Shinu
Shinu, just beyond Paras is known for its trout hatchery of the Fisheries
Department. It is from this hatchery that brown trout and rainbow trout are
stocked into the upper Kunhar river and the lakes Saiful Muluk, Lulusar and
Dodiputsar.
Jared
Just beyond Shinu, Jared is a small village, about 40 km from Balakot. It has a
state run Handicrafts Development Centre. Articles produced at Jared include
traditionally carved furniture, hand-made woollen shawls and namda rugs which
are famous throughout the Kaghan valley.
Naran
About 86 km from Balakot lies Naran, the main attraction of the Kaghan valley.
This town is situated on the banks of Kunhar river at an altitude of 2498 m at a
point where the valley widens. The river is wider and quieter here. There is a
very good view downstream, with some tree-covered islands in the foreground. It
is a starting point for lake Salful Muluk, Battakundi, Lalazar Plateau, lake
Lulusar and Babusar Pass. Outstanding attraction of Naran is its air of peace
and serenity.
Lake Saif-ul-Muluk
 Only 10 kms from Naran, this lake is 3200 metres (11,000 ft) high, providing an
awe-inspiring view of Malika Parbat (Queen of the Mountains) 5,260 metres high
(17,500ft). You can go boating on the lake and hear the local legend about
Prince Saif-ul-Muluk who fell in love with fairy. The lake and its surroundings
have a touch of unreal about them and are breathtakingly lovely. There is a
charming legend about a prince called Saiful Muluk who fell in love with a fairy
of the lake. The lake is named after the prince. The best way to reach the lake
is to walk but you may also take a pony or a jeep.
Babusar Pass
4146 metres high, this is the gateway to the Gilgit valley. On a clear day, you
can catch a glimpse of the towering Nanga Parbat, 8126 metres high. This is the
highest point, and marks the end of the Kaghan expedition. It is 80 kms away
from Naran. It is on the way to the pass that the Kaghan valley's scenery
becomes most dramatic. Battakundi is at a distance of 16 km from Naran and
provides access to Lalazar Plateau, lake Dodiputsar and lake Lalusar which is
the biggest natural lake in Hazara and the source of Kunhar river. From Babusar
Top mighty Nanga Parbat (8126 m) can be seen on a clear day.
On the way to the Pass there are many quaint villages, such as Battakundi,
Burawai, Besal and Gittidas, where you can rest. If you have the time, the
enchanting Lalazar plateau near Batakundi and Lulusar lake near the Babusar Pass
are worth visiting.
When to Visit
Climate in Hazara region is generally mild. Abbottabad is neither too hot in
summer nor too cold in winter. Nathiagali, Dungagali and Ayubia are pleasantly
cool with maximum temperature of 10'C and minimum of 0'C in summer and very cold
in winter with snowfall in December, January and February. They are, however,
accessible throughout the year. Thandiani is sometimes closed to traffic in
January, February due to heavy snowfall. Kaghan valley is open from mid-May to
mid-October but Babusar Pass is open only for six weeks in summer (July-August).
How to Get There
Hazara region is easily accessible from everywhere in Pakistan. At a distance
of 8 km from Haripur lies Havelian which is a railhead and links the region with
rest of the country. Abbottabad is only 15 km away and deluxe bus services
operate between this city and Peshawar, Rawalpindi and Lahore. There are paved
roads from Abbottabad to Thandiani. Nathiagali, Ayubia, Mansehra, Thakot and
Kaghan village. Road up to Naran is graveled but beyond Naran to all directions,
there are only jeep tracks.
What to Do
Fishing
Fishing is the main activity in Kaghan valley. You can fish for brown
trout, rainbow trout or the Mahasheer in the crystal clear water of the lakes
of the valley and in the Kunhar river. Fishing permit can be obtained from the
Fisheries Department at Naran, or the Trout Hatchery at Shinu. Mountain
climbing, trekking and pony riding are other favourite activities one can
indulge in.
What to Buy
Embroidered woollen garments, carved furniture of walnut wood and Namda rugs
are the specialties of Hazara.
History Credits:
Hazara Society for Science-Religion
Dialogue, Pakistan (HSSRD)
Picture & Info
Credits:
Sarhad Tourism
Corporation
http://www.brain.net.pk/~pedd/stc.htm
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